Recently, I had the privilege of undertaking two sea kayaking trips in the far north-west of Scotland — exploring the area around the Summer Isles, and further north around Scourie and Kylesku. This wild corner of the Highlands is renowned not just for its remoteness but also for its ancient geology. The terrain is dominated by Lewisian Gneiss — some of the oldest rock formations on Earth — and paddling here is like tracing the contours of time itself.
This area traces sections of the popular North Coast 500 route. Even just driving to a launch point is an experience in itself. Despite its popularity, I didn’t find the area too busy with campervans during my 2025 visits — perhaps a sign that the seasonal peak had passed or that visitor numbers had balanced out after earlier surges.
For sea kayakers, this stretch of coast offers something special. It’s not particularly tidal, so your primary consideration is the wind. During my first week on the water, conditions were ideal — light winds around Beaufort Force 3, with a generous west-going tidal push from Kylesku that assisted us for several kilometres. Decision-making here mainly revolves around wind strength and direction; making the most of any pushes along.
Launching and landing present their own challenges as the rocky shoreline plunges diretly into the sea for most of the coast, making access points far from obvious. Careful planning is essential, and even then, it pays to remain flexible. On more than one occasion, we extended a paddling leg to reach an easy landing spot. They are there but not obvious on the OS maps.
A highlight of the trip was visiting the island of Handa, a bird reserve managed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. This island is a haven for birdlife — towering cliffs, sea arches, and the spectacular 115 metre stack. During the breeding season, the skies come alive with great skuas, arctic skuas, guillemots, razorbills, and of course, the puffins — always a favourite.
Wild camping is a photographer’s dream. We found stunning spots on sandy coves and shingle beaches, perfect for a quiet night under the stars. The sea was just warm enough for swimming. There is still so much more to explore. We passed quickly by the cluster of islands just north of Kinlochbervie, but they call for a return visit. From there, one can continue north to Sheigra Bay, Sandwood Bay, and eventually tackle the more serious rounding of Cape Wrath.
Local hospitality also added to the experience — a fresh fish van in Altandhu, fish and chips in Ullapool, and excellent coffee and cakes in Kylesku eased the transitions back into civilisation.
What struck me most was the relative quietness of the region. It’s less paddled, and that’s precisely what makes it so special. It may be a longer drive, but it is worth it. I’m already looking forward to returning — to explore some more nooks and crannies, to watch the stars, and paddle along the route of ancient rock.
